Where’s the best Brioche?

Nine Stop Day of Eating and Drinking in Perhaps my Favorite Culinary City in The World,

Copenhagen.

Léo

I began writing this Reflection on Copenhagen Food & Drink standing at the bus stop listening to Action Bronson’s El Cocodrillo Turbo, “to show me respect, call me chef,” and a glass of Pompette’s nightly orange wine* in my belly. I realized that this list must avoid at all costs resembling an attempt to deem any sort of hierarchy amongst restaurants, and rather represent my personal list of recommendations of where to eat and drink in the sensational city of Copenhagen. If you text me asking for the best brioche, this is my response, a Nine Stop Day of Eating and Drinking in Perhaps my Favorite Culinary City in The World, Copenhagen.

First stop, Juno the Bakery. This is the best way to start your day in Copenhagen. Go in, get a pastry–though you’ll certainly walk back in for a second–perhaps grab a coffee* and sit on their patio. While Copenhagen is not the biggest city, it is a very active city, especially in the spring and summer months, the bustle of the town can be overwhelming, but Juno is the quiet refuge that is necessary before an active day. Juno highlights what a baker’s bakery can be, attention is paid to every item sold in the shop, simple rolls are airy with a fantastic crumb, the croissant is as buttery and layered as the best in Paris, and they are consistently introducing unique items such as their Raspberry and Pistachio Mille Feuille which come and go as the seasons change. This is stop one.

Next is for the coffee lovers, April Coffee Store & Showroom. Though I’ve heard rumblings of them moving to a new space in the city, currently this is the best coffee experience in Copenhagen. With Finn Juhl furniture, custom fixtures, a small, yet gorgeous coffee bar that is completely open to the space, you immediately feel the intention of the space, a divine focus on coffee and coffee alone. Don’t rush, take your time, in such nice places we tend to keep moving but avoid the urge and settle in to appreciate the coffee and the space. The staff is welcoming and knowledgeable–talk to them, ask them questions, your trip will benefit from it.

Now that we are caffeinated, let’s take a trip out to the water. Biking is my preferred means of getting to our next stop but the 2A Bus is a great option. It’s time for Lille Bakery. The list could have started and finished with Lille. Pastries, bread, sheep’s milk, beans, sandwiches, chicken livers, Lille delivers high quality takes of what every bakery/restaurant should. The best way to enjoy Lille is with a pack of friends, an order of everything on the menu, and getting bites of it all. While family style seems to be a bit overdone these days, Lille does it right. A necessity of every order is one of their Raspberry Sugar Berliner’s [the pillowy pink thing] and a sourdough roll with butter. Come to think of it the brioche with a fried egg, spring onion, and caper aioli is also needed. Oh! And the braised beans and coriander yogurt. Just do what I told you the first time around, get one of everything.

Here is the flex pick, Alice and Hart Bageri. Alice is my local cafe while in Copenhagen and is located on the island of Amager [often referred to as Ama]. It is not central to most things which is why it is not my top pick to start the day, but it is a top tiered bakery in every way, arrive at opening or at 10:30 when their second round of treats come out the oven and have one of the most magnificent croissants of your life. Alice will always be visited when I’m in town. Hart Bageri is the classic spot in town. Every place in Denmark has a cardamom pastry, Hart has the best one, their cardamom croissant is oozing with buttery, cardamom-y, sugar-y, delectable juices in every way you’d want a pastry to. Both are astounding and if you can fit them in one day or another, do it, though go earlier rather than later, the fresher the better. P.S. Alice also has astounding ice cream Fri-Sun.

Let a few hours pass, and it’s time for dinner, tonight it’s Tigermom. This is a tasting menu restaurant, but don’t do the tasting menu, or do, it’s probably exceptional, I haven’t done it, but what I’m recommending is their patio. On the patio you can get one of two options: Meat Rice Bowl or Vegetarian Rice bowl. Every week the protein shifts but no matter what it is, you will not be disappointed. A simple, clean, almost ridiculously great rice bowl. Some scoff at me for this recommendation given the simplicity of the dish, or price point [200 DKK ≈ 30 USD], that’s fine, but if you skip Tigermom, you’re missing an unforgettable meal.

Finally, Pompette. Pompette is extremely cool. Crawling with stylish locals. In its nature–a small plate & natural wine bar–extremely hip. But you breathe a sigh of relief when you walk in. A smile and willingness to work with whatever you’re looking for is what characterizes Pompette’s wonderful staff. With a bottle shop in the back and five nightly wines BTG* you can pick and choose what you want. If you’re feeling peckish after Tigermom, they have a meticulously crafted cheese centered menu and next door is my favorite chicken sandwich in Copenhagen, their sister restaurant, Poulette. Go with some friends, sit inside or out, get a few bottles, or run through the various glasses of the night, however you spend your time there, you’ll leave with a smile. Go get the brioche. Shoutout Lionel, I think. It’s got to be Lionel, right?* Shout out Lionel anyways.

Notes:

1.Wine made with white wine grapes, though the skins aren’t removed

2. They only have batch filter of Sweden’s Coffee roaster, Kopi. If you’re needing espresso, sit

tight as we will get to the best espresso in town next.

3. By The Glass

4. It wasn’t Lionel, it’s Jerrod